Poster Frames

[kintante5]

Anyway have a decent website where they get custom made frames from?  i've got a Pearl Jam poster with an odd measurement.....I'm looking for a slight upgrade from the plastic ones at Wal-Mart.

[walterfredo]

On page three of this thread, I linked another thread where I posted a long write-up on DIY framing.  It's from the old forum and the link no longer works.  I'm hoping a mod might be able to dig it out, and cut and paste it, because there was a lot of info.

http://forum.mymorningjacket.com/index.php/topic,1630.msg21862.html#msg21862

I do all my own framing and have for years.  There are certainly some tricks of the trade that you want to be aware of before placing an order, because you don't want to make an error with the order, but once you understand the process it's fairly easy.  If a mod can't dig up my original post I will write a new one.

The websites I typically use are www.pictureframes.com and www.americanframe.com

[itrainmonkeys]

I'd love if someone could somehow dig out the old info. I just spent a pretty penny on an Avett Brothers poster I missed out on at the show and will need to frame it soon. Never did my own framing (that wasn't just standard crappy plastic frames).

Thanks for the info!

[walterfredo]

alrighty, looks like my old post is forever lost in cyberspace.  Here's a rundown of DIY framing.  Feel free to ask more questions if this doesn't cover everything.

This is a good first read...

http://expressobeans.com/wiki/index.php/DIY_Framing

I try to use all acid free, UV plexi/glass, archival materials.  It really does make a difference.  Your prints WILL fade and discolor over time, even when not in direct sunlight.  When you order your frame you will also order the foam core backing board, mats (if you chose mats) and plexi.  If you prefer regular glass order it locally at a glass shop.  I prefer UV, no glare plexi myself.  If you ever chose to frame something without a mat, make sure you use spacers (can't think of the official framing term), these keep your print from being in direct contact with the glass/plexi.  You never want your print touching the glass. 

The two websites I typically use are...

www.pictureframes.com
www.americanframe.com

Overall I tend to like americanframe a little more, prices tend to be slightly better.  However, pictureframes.com will send you free mat samples upon request.  This is nice to have as the mat colors you see on your monitor screen will never be exactly what it is when you receive the mat, it always seems to be slightly different.  If you're going with a standard white or black mat, it doesn't matter, but if you're trying to match an exact color, having the samples to lay next to the print is crucial.  For that reason I tend to order from americanframes.com when using a black/white mat, and pictureframes.com when using a colored mat.

I recommend using mylar archival mounting corners to mount the image to the backing board.  NEVER have the print drymounted to a board.  It essentially ruins the value of the print, any framer with half a brain will either refuse to do it for you, or sometimes make you sign a waiver saying they're not responsible for the loss in value tied to permanently adhering the art to a backing board.  Mylar corners are easy to use.  Occasionally you will need to cut the corners back a little so that the mylar is not visible in the four corners of the mat. 





OK, here's the part that is somewhat tricky...and it differs between the two sites I linked above.  When you are selecting your frame/mat combos you will be asked to enter the dimensions of your print.  You always want the opening in your mat to be slightly smaller than the actual print size because you need overlap of the mat to hold your print in place.  The more white space around the border of a print, the easier it is to frame.  However, some prints have no white space at all, Justin Helton/Status tends to have no white space at all, so you'll need to decide how much of the border you want to cover by the mat.  Another option is to have it floated...and that's out of my range of expertise, I bring those to a professional framer.  If the print allows, I like to have the mat overlay the print by at least 1/4 inch on each side, sometimes even 1/2 inch if the white border is large enough.  Here's the key difference between the 2 sites though...

-when using americanframe.com you must compensate on your own when entering the art dimensions.  If your print is 18 X 24, and you've decided you want the mat to overlay 1/4 inch on each side, you need to subtract that from the overall dimensions that you enter, so 1/4 on each side means a total of 1/2 inch less on the width and height, so I would enter the dimensions as 17.5 X 23.5 into where you enter the art dimensions.  From there it will calculate all other dimensions of the mat and frame.  But you will need to decide on the width of the mat, I generally go 2 inches on my frame jobs.   

-when using pictureframes.com their system automatically compensates for mat overlay, and I believe it automatically takes 1/8 inch of each side.  Like I said above, I like to take more off if possible, so using pictureframes you need to first decide the dimensions of the print you want to be displayed through the mat and somewhat back out the calculation to get what you want.  For example... using the 18 x 24 example above.  If you type in 18 x 24 into the art dimension on pictureframes.com it will automatically provide a mat opening of 17.75 x 23.75 (it subtracts 1/8 from each side, for a total of 1/4 inch of the height and width).  So if I want my 1/4 on each side, I will actually have to enter the dimensions as 17.75 x 23.75, the website will then take 1/8 of each side of that dimension resulting in the 17.5 x 23.5 that I actually want.  Sounds confusing but once you play around with it you'll see what I'm talking about. What you want to check to verify you've entered it correctly is the mat opening dimensions, the website will tell you what the 'mat opening' dimensions are...verify that they are what you want them to be. 

Before you hit the old 'submit order' key, double, triple, and quadruple check that the dimensions of the mat opening are exactly that which you want the art that's showing to be. 

When you receive the frames and mat, then comes the fun part.  What I do is place the foam core on a large table.  (And do this in a dust free, dog hair free zone, because you'll inevitably get dust and hair inside the frame and it sucks to figure this out after you've put it all together.)  then place the print on the foam core and overlay the mat, slide the print around under the mat to get it lined up perfectly...with equal amounts of border on all sides of the mat.  When your happy with the alignment, I take 4 clean/dry pint glasses and place one upside down near each corner of the print, carefully lift the mat off...making sure not to bump or move the print and the pint glasses, then adhere each corner to the foam core using the mylar framing corners.  Then place the mat back on top and carefully place into the frame.  If your print is very large you'll have to tilt the frame on it's side and do the same with the print/foam/mat and carefully slap them together without the print coming out of the framing corners.  Some of this sounds confusing but once you start doing it you'll know exactly what I'm talking about! 

Also, both websites provide all the necessary hardware to hang the frame with the order. 

That was long! (again) 

[kintante5]

How do you know if ur frame has acid free/UV lining?  I'm paranoid my framed posters will deteriorate now and look horrible in the near future.

[walterfredo]

How do you know if ur frame has acid free/UV lining?  I'm paranoid my framed posters will deteriorate now and look horrible in the near future.

hmm, not sure how to answer that. Depending on who did the frame job for you, they might know or have it on recrod.  Typically, a quality framer will present to you your options when you chose your frame and mat.  They will typically give you a price comparison on how much the cost difference will be.  Also, several framers place stickers on the back of the frame that describe how it was framed.  If you went somewhere like Micheal's, they tend to have less knowledgeable staff. 

It can take decades for the print to degrade though, but there a ton of factors.  I have an old phish poster that I framed with super crappy materials, used cardboard for the backing, cheap glass, etc.  Framed it in 2000.  Had it re-framed properly in 2010 and you could see discoloration in the print when I took it out of the old frame. 

[kintante5]

Eeek.  I've used mainly the cheap Wal-Mart frames and done them myself.  Sounds unpromising for me.

[walterfredo]

Eeek.  I've used mainly the cheap Wal-Mart frames and done them myself.  Sounds unpromising for me.

Definitely not archival/acid free if it came through Bentonville Arkansas. But if the poster is easily replaceable then it might not be worth it to spend a bunch of money having it reframed.

[itrainmonkeys]

alrighty, looks like my old post is forever lost in cyberspace.  Here's a rundown of DIY framing.  Feel free to ask more questions if this doesn't cover everything.

Thanks so much for this. I need to take the time and really read through it. I need to step up my game in terms of Poster and Vinyl Record maintenance and upkeep. This should be helpful and I'll be sure to post some more questions when I have them. Much appreciated!

[walterfredo]

apparently I didn't search hard enough, just found my write-up on DIY framing, and so now I've apparently posted the info 3 times...

http://forum.mymorningjacket.com/index.php/topic,1630.msg285881.html#msg285881

[kintante5]

I just got two off one of those sites.....a little pricey but they seem to be worth it from the looks of it.

[MMJCOBRA]

https://www.michaelscustomframing.com/shop-products/custom-frames/photo-and-art-prints/?lang=en_US&fromPage=BROWSE_FRAME&prefn1=parentCollections&prefv1=Lifestyle%20Collections

70 off sale Michael's. I've always had great work done by them and usually spend a fun hour w the free picking out the proper matting and frames.

[walterfredo]

https://www.michaelscustomframing.com/shop-products/custom-frames/photo-and-art-prints/?lang=en_US&fromPage=BROWSE_FRAME&prefn1=parentCollections&prefv1=Lifestyle%20Collections

70 off sale Michael's. I've always had great work done by them and usually spend a fun hour w the free picking out the proper matting and frames.

I would recommend you just make absolutely certain they are using all acid free materials with UV glass/plexi. You'll regret it in the long run if you try to save a few bucks and don't got that route.

I realize every store is different but I refuse to let Michaels touch my goods anymore (as described above I do all my own framing anyhow), years ago I brought a print to be framed at Michaels in Chico, CA and they literally sliced one of my prints nearly in half, right down the middle and then framed it up and sent it home with me hoping I wouldn't notice, which I of course did. Unreal.